Repairing a Bosch e-bike part 2: the battery (053)
In this video we’re rebuilding the frame battery of a 1st/2nd gen Bosch mid-drive electric bike. We’re upgrading it from the original 288Wh to approx. 500Wh using Samsung INR18650-35E cells (instead of the original Samsung NCR18650-22E cells)
What if there’s a suicide function on the battery? How can I do this without bricking the battery?
ATTENTION! If you have new style battery (400/500 Wh), you need to connect 36V+ power supply to terminals while replacing the battery pack, so it won’t wipe itself. Then you have to hold button on battery for 10 seconds to "reset" it.
I’ve done it today and it’s working fine.
(I’m not 100% sure if you really need the power supply, but I will not risk 900€ battery)
PLS HELP, I HAVE A YAMAHA PAS CITY, MY BATTERY IS DEAD, I REPLACED ALL THE LI-ION BATTERIES WITH NEW ONE, BUT STILL IT DOESNT WORK
After replacing the package, it shows error 200. Can you reset BMS and how?
Guys im from uk maybe anyone can help me to do this with my 48v battery for some cash?
hi, I have a bosch powerpack 400 which did not work and I replaced the cells not knowing that the BMS can not stay disconnected. Now when I have the cells replaced with good capacity cells the BMS does not gives any order to the motor. The Battery is charging and fully charged.
Ho could I hack the BMS to make it work again? ANY HELP IS Apreciated. THANK You
This is fake, the battery does not work anymore after the cell exchange …
hey, good informative video, i have a 10ah pack which sits on a 15a max bike, the battery also has a 15 amp rating on it so when i go to accelerate the bars on the display go down. so sad they didnt put sufficient cells in the battery pack for the application. but do you think these are genuine for when those i have fries: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-7V-Max-13A-3500MAh-18650-Akku-INR18650-35E-Wiederaufladbare-Li-Ion-Zelle-10Pcs/333297724114?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D57921%26meid%3D3ea58d3e61354a6baca6e5b138303b5c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D143211300204%26itm%3D333297724114%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851#rpdCntId
good cells seems to be everything…..
Thanks! You inspired me to do this DIY upgrade and I managed to replace with 20700 cells giving me a good 17Ah/600Wh capacity with more power. Although I had to buy a spot welder and spent some time on searching & knowledge: it was worth the effort (and money).
My experience in short:
– Cut the main wires at the battery tab and save yourself the trouble of desoldering at the bms.
– Forget about the effort of saving the old nickel strips (I spent a good 30 minutes on one side and decided to give up). Buy new strips for a dollar/euro or so.
– For my speed pedelec I wanted more power and capacity so I used 20700 cells. These fit if you just hot glue the cells together which will give the same dimension as the original pack. You need to remove the tabs in the side panels to compensate for the increased height.
– You can solder the balance leads to the bottom side of the balance cable, this save the trouble of scraping off the top layer.
– My Bosch classic 400 pack still works after having it depowered for 3 weeks.
Result: before a good 35-38 km/h. After: 41-43 km/h 🙂
Note: I just did not want to run the risk but there is a good change that 21700 cells (20Ah!) will also fit.
I am thinking about moving the controller board to the connector end because I jut can’t stand the idea of losing power in the long cables.
Lol je bent Nederlands haha
Super video! I have a question that doesn’t seem to be answered anywhere… If you do an upgrade from a 300W powerpack classic+ to 400W or even to 500W (483W actually in my case)… will the bikes (intuvia) display show you the correct new ranges? I noticed the BMS from a 300Wh and the BMS from a 400Wh look exactly identical and if they are… (can someone check this please?)… how is the distincion made to determine wether you can bike another 20 or 40 kilometers (or miles if you like). In other words how does the bike know you inserted a 300W or a 400W battery? It would be nice to know how we could change the ranges accordingly when upgrading to higher capacity.
i want to use a bosch battery like this to power a 36v LED-chip that’s mounted on a CPU cooler as a portable lamp. however the current only flows for about 3 seconds after i push on the button that’s next to the charge indicator. what do i have to do to let the battery always be "ON"?
Hallo an alle brauche deine Hilfe !!! Ich habe eine BOSH-Batterie mit 400 Watt, die den Motor nicht mehr mit Strom versorgt. Ich habe es an der Batterie selbst demontiert, es sind 42 Volt im Ausgang 0. Die Platine selbst wurde an einigen Stellen oxidiert. Ich habe alles gereinigt. Wie führe ich eine BMS-Karte (Controller) aus? Danke
This seems great on the surface yet does your BMS still work after this? Is there no sneaker circuit to disable the BMS when you get in there?
Ik heb een Bosch Li-Ion 10INR18/65-4 36v 13.4Ah 500Wh en deze is defect: laadt niet meer op (geen enkel led licht nog op). de lader is oké. Kan ik een nieuwe ‘BMS-module" voor dit model ergens aankopen aub? Daar ik de batterijen één voor één nagezien heb en die zijn ook oké, zou het aan dit printplaatje moeten liggen….(hoop ik….), maar nergens te vinden.
How much did you pay for the 40x INR19650-35E cells? Link to supplier?
Please email me in English testing circuit board instructions for Bosch 400 bicycle battery. thank you.
hi, I have a bosch powerpack 400 which did not work and I replaced the cells not knowing that the BMS can not stay disconnected. Now when I have the cells replaced with good capacity cells the BMS does not gives any order to the motor. The Battery is charging and fully charged.
Ho could I hack the BMS to make it work again? ANY HELP IS Apreciated. THANK You
weet je misschien welke batterijen ik het beste kan gebruiken voor een bosch 500wh accu?
Could you please confirm BMS part, starting at 9:26, there is now suicide part, so I can remove batteries and connect new right? And I dont need any diagnostic tools to reset or so?
please help i have 5 Bosch battery all the BMS board are defect how and where i can find new BMS board to replacement , thank you
very good and interesting video. I really want to rebuilt mine but I don’t understand how do the soldering (special tools?)
I have a Powerback 400 and my cells are great by my bms ist not letting electricity to flow what is the solution? Can you make a video about the bms please?
Yes, very nice upgrade. I used the same cells to upgrade my brothers ebike. 6 parallel 10 series. 756 Wh. original is was like 300 Wh. It even fits in the original battery housing. The new battery has way less voltage sag, so the acceleration and top speed are also higher.
After a week of struggling to find a way of increasing my Bosch cells, I figured out a way of increasing my Bosch 300 pack without taking out the cells because I figured out if I did, that would be the end. Now I have a 28ah battery pack and it lasts me ages. 170 mile on a single charge.
Hello friends.
I now how to reactivate your bms after you cut the curent, or you repair your batery 😀
please have a question about the threads (blue – yellow – green ( near positive & negative 6:35 ) what is it for ? thanks man your video are very helpful.
Hello, is there a schematic drawing online, which shows clearly how the cells are interconnected ? I had to remove a faulty BMS completely and now I need to charge every SINGLE cell in order to have a balanced pack and to be able to charge it with a cheap china charger, which charges up to 42V. Thanks !
I "finished" this repair on a powerpack
"1-270-020-504
20322 0034 1 2
Li-Ion 10INR18/65-4
36V 8.0Ah 288Wh
Made in Poland"
Now i am getting a blinking error-code (2nd and 4th LED blink when i press the battery indicator button) the error code means:
A defect is detected in the battery pack. Contact us for assistance.
Actions taken:
1) Checked individual parallel cells -> All are perfectly balanced at 3.53v.
2) Checked balanced connector pins on BMS -> All cell voltages reaches the BMS.
3) Tried the 10second reset -> No change.
So it seems that I might be out of luck
Probable causes;
X) That my battery has a suicide function. (not very probable i believe – as it is 5 years old)
Y) I heated the BMS too much or damaged it with ESD or in some other way during my repair.
Z) When i first connected the battery to the charger, it seemed to charge for a moment but then went into error mode. After this i discovered that i had not connected the cell-monitoring-cable to the BMS. So maybe the BMS saw this as a damaged battery, that should not be charged/used for safety reasons… Be it from damage or DIY-tampering.
H) That the battery has somehow damaged my charger, and a new one might fix the problem. (Unlikely i think)
Right now i am leaning towards y or z
Loose ideas of things i might try:
a) Try connecting battery to ebike – to see what happens – maybe a more informative error message…
b) Charge the pack using other Li-Ion charger and then reconnect the BMS. See if that makes a difference.
c) Contact a ebike-shop and ask if they have any reset-tools for the battery (i would deem this unlikely)
Conclusion:
Make sure everything is connected the first time you power on the battery.
I would love your input.
Also: The author of the movie mentions a forum where these things are discussed. Which one might that be?
Again: Thanks for a great movie
thanks 4 great video miss the pinout but i will figure it out when i take it apart
toch zijn al je producties interessant en leerzaam, dank! waar heb je de cellen vandaan, kun je iets aanraden?
I have two Haibike with Bosch battery’s. My wife’s 400 power pack wont charge and my 500 works just fine on hers.
<s> PAS TÉLÉ POCHE BLANC
is it possible to remove the whole pack including bms and plug from the case? i mean to just exchange the case i.e. a black one for a white one without welding?