EEVblog #1072 – KRK Rokit 6 Studio Monitor Speaker Repair
Repairing a KRK Rokit 6 powered near field studio monitor speaker.
You won’t believe what caused the fault!
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They also sound dull.
I have some krk rokit 6, before they had a buzz but after a few days the buzz went away but now it sounds low and without bass, what can it be?
I have had my KRK Rocket5 for about 12 years. one started crackling so I opened it up and yes black gunk as well.
Dude how do I fucking get it off why did you totally skip the part where you show how to get it off
I have these speakers…. yay… somehow they still work… well most of the time anyway. The left one is starting to sound different. I suspect black gunk of death. Thanks Dave for making this it gives me the confidence to try fixing these myself!
Same problem here with pair of KRK RP8 G2. Removed all the gunk from both boards on both speakers, replaced all caps on both boards with high quality Japanes caps Nichcon, Rubycon, and sound is now incredible. Also there is no more buzzing or strange noises coming from speakers when they are silent or when music is playing.
Two of the medium sized caps in the middle are bulging, what should I replace them with?
I am trying to repair my rokit 5 g3, there is a connector missing, one of those white cases with three wires that clicks into a 3 pin point. It says LF – CN2 DG 5V ST next to where the 3 pins are. Is there a place online where people can order specific parts of the amp board? Thanks!
If the tweeter is push in and you use a needle to pop it back out can it affect the sound quality and is it damage?
very interesting. i hope it will fix my rokit 5. it buzzes then it warms up.
definitely not the only one
i buy presonus eris e4.5 bt now i hear every hiss from every video.
Do you have to discharge the caps before you start poking around in there or does it do that when you power it down?
I’m having this same issue, same exact sound! I noticed two of the smaller caps are bulging, but not the big ones. I actually had this unit repaired at KRK once as well, but not sure if this new issue is the caps gone bad or the goo. Would bad caps make this same sound?
I have the Rokits 6 G2 since spring 2010. Today the left woofer just died on me. I’ll open it tomorrow to see what’s causing it. Hope is not too severe.
That is a studio-grade monitor and it costs a small fortune. It is NOT a PC speaker.
Just came back to this video after having watched it when it came out. I bought 2nd gen KRK Rokit 5s like this in 2013, And used them for 7 years straight. I used to turn them off whenever I wasn’t using them, and eventually decided to leave them on indefinitely. What I noticed was that after about 5-6 years of daily use, they’d developed an issue where turning them off, waiting for complete discharge of the power supply, then powering them back on would begin buzzing at mains frequency, and would eventually subside back to noise floor. After 7 years, the buzzing would never subside, and leaving them off for any extended period of time, such as my move from South Carolina to Georgia, would cause the lowest level buzzing to rise. Using extra power filtering before the components did nothing, there were no ground faults, and disconnecting signal entirely made no difference. I’ve finally replaced the KRKs with new main near-fields, but even after just a day of being disconnected, I tested the KRKs again just to see, and sure enough, the buzzing is even louder now, up from an annoying level to an unacceptable, unusable buzz. If I let them sit, I imagine I’ll end up with an oscillating amp board. I suppose in about a week or two, I can test again to see if, even in the dry environment of my house, they manage to buzz even louder. If so, then it’ll be pretty clear that these will eventually send 50 V to the drivers.
Thanks to you, I actually know what this fault is and was informed enough to replace them before running down the line filtration rabbit hole!
I’m currently fixing my pair & Jesus f**k this gunk is annoying… and my C106 popped its top
Definitely gonna buy 4 Broken KRKS in the future.Use them without thier amplifiers and use them as passive ones.
Laying in bed one night watching a NRL game on a small portable colour TV. Then all of a sudden the TV set goes off. I get out of bed and look in the back and through the back grill I could see flame. Now as most of you guys would know, in those old CRT sets the main board was always mounted at the bottom of the set, so all I could do to put out the flame was to start blowing it out out from the top. Luckily it eventually extinguished. The next day I open up the set to see what had happened and I found that a dry joint on a transformer had ignited the glue they had blobbed around the base of the transformer. I re-soldered the dry joint on the transformer and cut all the glue off and TV was working again. However, it was a real eye opening moment just how a TV can start a house fire. I just could not believe they would use a flammable glue to hold down a component.
How can i get the box for v series 4 mine is damaged
17:57 FOOOOOL BRIDGE RECTIFIER!!!!
you didn’t tell what’s the main Amp IC here…
Do you happen to know how to bypass the auto standby "feature" on the newer Rokit series KRK speakers – like the Rokit K5??? It’s horribly designed, taking a ton of signal to turn the speakers back on, once they go into standby.
Ooomg black matter. what’s that crab????
i love the videos but i can’t stand that voice, sorry
Thank you so much for this video! One of my KRK Rokit 8 G2 speakers started to have issues, it would be ok for about 1 or 2 seconds then the volume would attenuate drastically down to roughly 10% of the original volume. After watching your video I opened up my speaker and saw the same black gunk everywhere. I scraped off as much as would easily chip off where it could possibly have been bridging between two circuits. I discovered one capacitor that was becoming corroded with a rusty colored powder and another with some white powder underneath the black gunk. I cleaned them as best as I could and tested the speaker. It has been running normally since. I imagine I may need to replace the corroded bits, but for now it’s working great. Thanks again!
Thanks for posting this video. One of my (pretty old) KRK RPG2 8’s suddenly stopped producing bass. After determining it was in fact the speaker’s fault I opened it up and found the same conductive black gunk all over. I chipped it all off and gave it a good clean. Luckily no components had corroded yet and I have my bass back 🙂
We not winning chicken dinner ! 23:49
Two donkey’s years later and your video just saved me the expense of replacing my KRK Rokit8 Gen2 speakers at a time that I can little afford new toys. Mine suffered from the same issue. Cleaned up and good as a bought-again one! Thank you Dave.
Wow, what a voice! But thanks for your help. 😉
i have a pair of KRK Rokit 8 Studio Monitor’s both worked ok the one started tot urn off after 10 or 15 mins ,any ideas as to where i should look to get a fix?
I just pulled my Rokits 6 G2s out of storage and 1 had this same issue. Unfortunately I let that loud buzz go until it stopped lol Now I have a monitor with only the low end
"Black Gunk Of Death" Great band, wish I’d seen ’em…
this is just ”dandy” the gunk across the pins of a gain switch i’m getting from 100k to 500k as i move the probes on the gunk at this point I’m flabbergasted i will have to remove any gunk that i see and try out hi-temp silicon
hm, So my highs cut out on one of my rokit 6s..checked the tweeter it’s reading 4ohms, tested with different cables, amps, and mixers. Any thoughts on what the issue could be?
chinees made junk
Could the cover on the phono jack be to block the air path so it all goes through the bass port on the front?
Sadly KRK are crap, boomy plastic sound, there are better options in that price range. But they are plenty and easy to get, so people buy them a lot. Nice choice for a newbie musician – you either just drop out and sell them or will grow and buy better and more expensive stuff. I doubt anybody will actually use those more than 2-3 years.
Well I won’t buy a KRK again!
Wanted to Thank You for your detailed video! I got lucky, my tweeter vibrated badly when I stared it up! Shut off immediately, found your video, cleaned my gunk around all speaker connections. Looked for any swollen ( whatever they are ) but looked good! Put it back together! Sounds like new! You are very much appreciated! Keep up the good work for the people who try!
I have the buzz issue, been swapping out capacitors. Didn’t work, was moving onto the big ones as I noticed black gunk coming out of one. Just seen this video…Bingo!!
My rocket 8 just shit the bed yesterday, took it apart after watching a few videos and same thing black gunk collected moisture then became conductive and corroded a bunch of components, took 10 years or so for them to quit. I will attempt replacing the corroded parts would u suggest leaving them bare after installing them or putting something else in place of the black gunk?
thanks, same problem, different resistor (R100 had gone). All working again now!
Just stay simple and go with passive speakers and great amps.
Have you thought about, could you make a video reviewing the insides of V series or Rokit G4, please? They may be a lot more interesting, here is a little look inside https://krksystems.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/inside-monitor-2.png what is that thin plate at the top? Here is look at the electronics https://krksystems.files.wordpress.com/2019/05/dsp-1.png?w=201&h=250 which looks like much less
hi i aredy buy one . after i watching u video open my krk . all gum i saw in my krk .
Hahaha. Amazing. Vibration isolating mechanical connectors is probably a very good idea, but It’s likely they were just sealing it, because having air paths into a small acoustic suspension box is going to cause serious dust accumulation at the cracks, and especially through mechanical connectors. That’s going to be a problem.
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